How to choose the right brow shape for your face shape

Brows frame the face. The same face looks completely different with a high arch, a straight line or a soft curve. The right shape balances the face, opens up the eyes and softens your expression. The wrong one does the opposite and can make you look stern, tired or permanently surprised. That is why your brow shape should follow your face shape, not the latest trend.

How to work out your face shape

Pull your hair back, stand straight in front of a mirror and look at four things:

1. Forehead width — at its widest point;
2. Cheekbone width — below the outer corners of your eyes;
3. Jawline width — from below the ear to the chin;
4. Face length — from the hairline to the chin.

Now compare: which part is widest, is your jaw rounded or angular, and is your face clearly longer than it is wide or about the same? The answers point to one of the shapes below.

Brow shape by face shape

Oval face

The oval face is considered the easiest to work with: the cheekbones are slightly wider than the forehead and jaw, and the lines are soft. Almost any brow suits it. A soft, moderately lifted arch looks most balanced. Avoid a very high, sharp arch — it makes you look constantly surprised.

Round face

A round face is about as long as it is wide, with a rounded jaw. The goal is to make the face look longer, so the best choice is a lifted brow with a defined, slightly angled arch and a tail that tapers towards the temple. The vertical line draws the eye upwards and the face looks longer. Avoid round, "rainbow" brows — they emphasise the roundness.

Square face

A square face has a wide forehead and a strong, angular jaw. Here the brows should soften the face: a softly curved brow with a rounded arch and medium or slightly fuller thickness works best. Very thin brows get lost next to a strong jaw, and a sharp angle makes the face look even more angular.

Long face

A long face is noticeably longer than it is wide. The goal is the opposite — to make the face look shorter and wider. The best choice is a straight, horizontal brow with only a slight curve and a slightly longer tail. The horizontal line draws the eye to the sides. A high arch does not work here — it makes the face look even longer.

Heart-shaped face

A heart-shaped face has a wide forehead and a narrow, pointed chin. The brows should take attention away from the forehead and balance the face. A soft, rounded arch with a low or medium lift suits it best. Very thick, dark or sharply angled brows make a wide forehead stand out even more.

Diamond face

A diamond face has wide cheekbones with a narrower forehead and chin. A curved brow with a soft but clear peak works best: it makes the forehead look wider and softens the cheekbones. Straight, horizontal brows suit this shape less.

The three-point rule: where a brow starts and ends

Whatever your face shape, three points set the proportions of your brows. Take a pencil or brush and check in the mirror:

1. Start — hold the pencil straight up from the side of your nose. Where it crosses the brow is where the brow should begin.
2. Highest point (arch) — angle the pencil from the side of your nose across the outer edge of your pupil while looking straight ahead. Where it crosses the brow is where the arch should be.
3. End — angle the pencil from the side of your nose to the outer corner of your eye. That is where the brow should end.

The start and end usually sit on roughly the same horizontal line; if the tail drops too low, the face looks tired and sad.

Thickness and colour

• Thickness should match your features: large features and a strong jaw suit fuller brows, delicate features suit medium brows.
• Colour: with dark hair, brows look best 1–2 shades lighter than the hair; with blonde hair, slightly darker. Brows that are too dark make the face look heavy and severe.
• A natural look: the start of the brow should always be lighter and softer than the middle and the tail.

The most common mistakes

• Over-plucking — some hairs may never grow back;
• Following trends blindly — what suits one face may not suit another at all;
• Shaping at home from one side only — that is how brows end up uneven;
• A tail that is too short — the face looks shorter and the eyes smaller;
• A colour that is too dark — the brows look "drawn on".

Which treatment to choose

Once you know your shape, different treatments help you get it and keep it:

• Brow shaping — the specialist fits the shape to your face proportions and removes stray hairs. It costs 15₾.
• Brow lamination — sets your own hairs in the right direction so the brows look fuller and groomed. It costs 80₾, or 90₾ with tinting. More: brow lamination.
• Permanent brows — if you have few hairs or gaps, pigment keeps your chosen shape for a long time. It costs 150₾. More: permanent brows.

Why SANLE

At SANLE, brows are done by Nini and Sofi. Nini is an experienced professional trained in France who also does permanent makeup. Before the treatment, the specialist looks at your face and chooses the shape with you in front of the mirror, so the result looks natural and suits your face. The salon is in Tbilisi, on Marjanishvili: book online or see all brow services and prices.

Frequently asked questions